![]() We’ll send you our latest edition the month before you’ll find it hits the shop for only $25. I’ve included a little sketch below showing where to take your measurements from, with some completely made up numbers to help illustrate where they would go.Save with the Undie Club. ![]() You could make the pocket quite high, so that it comes up to the elastic, but I find that I like mine to be a bit lower so that it’s easy to reach my hand into to put in or take out my packer. I usually just leave the whole thing as a trapezoid for ease of cutting later and then just trim any corners that stick out after I’ve sewn it together (if you are sewing with a triple stitch, which is likely for knits like this, then it won’t unravel even if you snip the seam). Next you just draw a line how high you want the pocket to come up and add a bit extra for a double rolled hem at the top. The overall shape of the projection of the pocket is likely to be a trapezoid (making the assumption that the side seams are linear), so to get the overall shape then you can repeat the same thing with the top of the pattern piece and use the height of the pattern piece to draft the shape. The bottom length is the easiest to determine: simply measure the bottom of the pattern piece for the front, subtract the centre seam allowance, and then double what is left. The measurements that you will need are the desired height of the pocket, the length of the bottom seams, and the width at the top of your pocket. (If you use an STP I still don’t think it would be very functional to keep the “quick access” because you will still have the back of the pocket in the way.) Other than the cutaway the pattern pieces are the same though so you can just cut two of the “whole” pieces and none of the “cutaway” ones and sew them together instead of a “whole” piece and a “cutaway” piece. (Or even on an existing pair if you just sew it in carefully along the seam lines.) If you look at the pattern you will probably notice that it has a two layer “quick access” front, this is something that I’ve completely gotten rid of since there is no way that I would be using it and I wanted to cut down on extra bulk at the front since I would be adding another layer already. It’s a pattern for boxer briefs with a two-piece front to make the “pouch,” and I think this method should work on any other pattern of a similar construction. ![]() I don’t know whether this will exactly work for any underwear pattern, but the pattern that I use is the Comox Trunks by Thread Theory designs (24”–45” waist, 31”–49” hip). Below is the method that I have come up with to draft and sew a packing pocket for the style of underwear that I prefer to wear. So when I started sewing, figuring out how to modify an underwear pattern to accommodate a pocket was high on my list of priorities. When you consider the materials and labour that goes into them they’re usually fairly priced, but when you add in shipping and potentially exchange rate it just ends up being way more than standard underwear. The problem about packing underwear though is that it’s generally pretty expensive so having a whole drawerful can be cost prohibitive. There are a number of solutions to this problem, but I find packing underwear the most comfortable because it keeps the packer separate from my skin and doesn’t add an extra elastic waistband around my hips. I think most people who pack have at some point in time had (or worried about) their packer moving around strangely or even in the worst-case scenario falling right out. That might sound counterintuitive to most people, but when you take into consideration that I am trans-masculine then it really makes perfect sense based on my clothing needs. One of the first articles of clothing that I started sewing was actually underwear.
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